Temple of Bloom

Sakura

by David Snyder

It's confusing to see a Chinese restaurant take its name from the Japanese word for cherry blossom, a flower that's in bloom only for a short time in the spring. But co-owner Jack Chen has his reasons for calling his new Chinatown space Sakura.

Until recently, Chen and his business partner, Angel Lin, were part-owners of Dim Sum Garden. But a disagreement with other partners caused Chen and Lin to split to open Sakura in the former Ong's, which now boasts sage green walls and white molding. Chen says he included Japanese cuisine on Sakura's menu to capitalize on healthy eating trends; the name, he adds, is meant to distinguish it from other Chinatown spots.

The Japanese fare at Sakura, though, is not the main draw. Raw scallop cloaked in slices of lemon did not have the signature sweetness you expect when it's perfectly fresh. Tuna sashimi was flat. Though tasty, the signature "Sabi" roll was busy and underwhelming; the roll's heavy sauce and tempura shrimp also belie the low-cal trend Sakura's aiming for.

But thanks to crisp and simple flavors, Sakura's authentic regional Chinese cuisine — spanning Shanghai, Szechuan and Mandarin traditions — is already a winner. The ginger and plum I detected in a secret sauce granted a cold Shanghai marinated duck appetizer a deep, resonant intensity. Elemental sweet and tangy flavors helped rice wine chicken shine. It took only a few seconds for the moist, buttery pork of the "Lion's Head" meatballs to melt on my tongue. Thick, chewy, pan-fried udon noodles swam in a simple yet comforting brown sauce.

Heat addicts will appreciate that Sakura stays true to spicier dishes. Shanghai-style chicken with green peppers was pumped up with a zingy Szechuan sauce to lend simple ingredients sophisticated warmth. Spicy shrimp also had a pleasant heat, though the shrimp themselves were a tad spongy.

Service here is informed and engaging. My server lit up when I ordered her favorite dish, a Shanghai-style pork shoulder. The portion of moist, tender meat was so huge that I felt like I committed a felony for paying just $7.95.

The Japanese half of Sakura's menu may not solidify the place as a destination, but thanks to some good, honest Chinese eats, this eatery should continue to blossom for a long time.

(david.snyder@citypaper.net)

Sakura | 1038 Race St., 215-873-8338. Sun.-Thu., 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Appetizers, $2.25-$5.95; Entrées, $7.95-$11.95. BYOB.