In Bloom

Philly's neighborhood food co-ops are dreaming big.

by Patrick Rapa

Michael T. Regan Weavers Way in Mount Airy

We, the citizens of Philadelphia, are not known for our enlightened health-consciousness, but there's some evidence we're trending that way.

Again?

John McGoran once came across an old flier from 1973 listing the dues for Philadelphia's food co-ops, which back then numbered about 25. It also alluded to some kind of citywide Co-operative Council overseeing everything. There's awe and amusement in his voice as he imagines what must have been a bustling health-food culture in the city back then. "It was pretty cool, there was a pretty vibrant thing happening," he says with a laugh.

2009 Farmers Market Guide

The UglyRipe tomato ain't pretty, but it's pretty good.

Right now, depending on how you define the term, there are really only two neighborhood food co-ops in the city — with another one on the way.

McGoran is communications director for the city's longest-running co-op, Weavers Way in Mount Airy (and a board member for the nascent Creekside Co-op in suburban Elkins Park, which is still in the planning stages).

In case you don't know, the co-op model goes something like this: You pay a membership fee to a small nonprofit grocery store whose inventory specializes in local, natural and/or organic foods, especially produce. You work there a few hours a month. Joining the various committees that make buying and business decisions is optional.

"There definitely seems to be a resurgence of interest in co-ops," McGoran says, pointing to Weavers Way's various expansion projects. "When word got out that we were looking to open another store, another co-op in a nearby community, it was astonishing the amount of interest and inquiry we got." More on that in a bit.

That's what's most amazing about Philly's co-ops — despite the grim economy, despite our reputed love for greasy steaks, despite our acceptance of the unhealthiness of everyday urban life — business is booming. Maybe it's because the membership model is impervious to stock market fluctuation, or maybe this city is finally giving a crap about nutrition. Regardless, the trend is something this city's co-ops are banking on.

The group of like-minded residents started out with a road trip up to Mount Airy to pick up some tips and tricks from Weavers Way. Since then, they've gradually defined their goals at monthly meetings and over e-mail (all while holding down day jobs; Carpineta's a realtor). They know they'd like an inventory that emphasizes eating healthy and buying local. The details are up in the air.

"The co-op could wind up serving 500 people or 5,000 people, it's fine either way," says Carpineta. It depends on the membership. "It's gonna be whatever the community can support."

HALF OFF DEPOT

Why live life at full price?

The response, he says, has been upbeat, though they don't have much of a visible presence yet. You can find some of their members at the Greensgrow farmers market in Port Richmond, where they have a table to raise money and awareness. They're working on getting more of the neighborhood's longtime residents involved. "This is not just a yuppie thing or a hippie thing, or a hipster thing or a newbie thing," he says. "This is about food, this is about health."

"We're not out to make maximum profit, we're out to stay open. And to maybe make a little bit of a gain to be able to grow, and to be able to fix a refrigerator if it breaks," says Carpineta. "I mean, organic cashews are never gonna be as cheap as cashews you get at CVS, but we'll do the best we can."

The benefits of the co-op should be a selling point for a neighborhood that seems to be on the uptick: creating jobs, uniting residents, improving nutrition education. "We think the store will wind up being a beacon for bright spirits all across the 19125 and 22 ZIP codes."

When Daniel Flaumenhaft joined Mariposa 10 years ago, the West Philly co-op had about 300 members. Now, he's on their standing committee and, depending on how you look at it (households or individual shoppers), they've got somewhere in the neighborhood of 700 to 1,200. And a long waiting list. Things are getting tight in that tiny storefront, even by co-op standards.

"We have a committee, a space exploration committee," he chuckles. "We're actively looking for another building." They'd like to find something in a walkable radius of their current store at 47th and Baltimore. "Our members are very concentrated geographically."

Where most other co-op stores are open to the general shopping public (at higher prices), Mariposa is members-only. All decisions are made on a consensus basis, although some structural reorganization will likely be voted into effect at a meeting later this month.

More info at mariposa.coop.

This is the big kahuna of Philly food co-ops. They've got their main store at Greene Street and Carpenter Lane in Chestnut Hill and a natural pet food store across the street. Three years ago they started growing their own tomatoes and such at Awbury Arboretum, and just signed a 10-year lease, meaning long-term crops like berries will soon be on the shelves. Last July they opened a small satellite store in West Oak Lane. (And then there's all the community outreach programs they do with schools, farms and such.)

Unlike Mariposa, non-members can shop at Weavers Way (and pay a 10 percent fee), and there's no waiting list. In recent years they've found themselves with more business than they can handle. Hence the plans to open another major location. Instead of looking to make inroads elsewhere — they fielded interest from Grays Ferry, Germantown, Chester, etc. — what Weavers Way mostly wanted was someplace really close by, to take the pressure off the current store. "We're selling at about $2,200 a square foot annually, which is just ridiculous," says John McGoran. "When it's busy it just gets to be too much."

The solution: setting up shop in the 6,700-square-foot space that once housed Caruso's Market in Chestnut Hill. Following renovations, it should be open in the fall.

More info at weaversway.coop.

(pat@citypaper.net)