by Shaun Brady
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reading
America Eats was planned as a guidebook to the country's eating habits, undertaken as a make-work WPA project but abandoned after the bombing of Pearl Harbor. The raw contributions, from a few ringers — Eudora Welty, Zora Neale Hurston, Nelson Algren — but mostly by amateurs, were meant to be smoothed out into a single editorial voice, something of a prewar Zagat's. Mark Kurlansky has sifted through the archives to offer The Food of a Younger Land, a treasure trove of culinary idiosyncrasies, a snapshot of the final moments when there was no alternative to "Buy Local," before fast food and frozen entrées largely eliminated regional differences.


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