Carolyn Wyman
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Do you think the bread makes the steak? If so, and you've never eaten a cheesesteak in Montgomery, Chester or Bucks, then you don't know how good a cheesesteak can be.
These counties comprise the main delivery areas for Conshohocken (aka Conshy) Bakery, the maker of what are arguably the best steak rolls on the planet. They are fresh and tender while at the same time having enough heft and flavor to hold their own against a mountain of steak mush and river of Whiz. In other words, Conshy's rolls are similar to but even better than the rolls from the current cheesesteak roll darling, Liscio's.
The source of this wonder bread is an old-world stucco building on a side street in Conshohocken. Conshohocken Bakery co-founders Domenico Gambone and Frank Manze met and learned their trade at the now-defunct Borzillo's Bakery in Norristown. They started up this place in 1973.
Gambone's son and bakery assistant VP Michael says I am not the first to praise their rolls' flavor and gentle strength. He says it's what they're aiming for, although he seems at a loss to explain why his competitors aren't able to produce something as good.
"We're all using the same process and same basic ingredients." When pressed, he allows, without naming names, that "some of those with softer rolls may use more preservatives to make them last longer."
He says all of their business is word of mouth and that 85 percent of sales are rolls. The bakery/office complex is full of family: An aunt runs the small on-premises retail shop; his sister, Christina, does HR; and when I first called to talk to Michael I got his mother/company secretary Claire, who said he was out on a delivery.
Michael, 41, has been working at the bakery since he was 14 and says he loves it, while noting, "My father wanted something better for me."
But better than making the finest roll for the region's favorite sandwich? Hard to imagine.
Sandwich shops using Conshohocken Bakery rolls include Boccella's in Conshohocken, Pudge's in Blue Bell, the Peppermill in East Goshen, John's Pizza in Frazer, and Lou's and Eve's, both of Norristown. Or purchase the rolls at Conshy's Bakery store (79 Jones St., Conshohocken, 610-825-9334, conshybakery.com) and some steak from Claymont Steak's wholesale operation (see No. 2) and make the world's BEST cheesesteak.
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