Genie in a Bottle

Aladeen Middle Eastern Restaurant

by David Snyder

IF A GENIE granted me three wishes for Aladeen, the recently opened Middle Eastern/Moroccan spot on South Street, here's how I'd spend them.

First, I’d wish more flavor into the meat. Both the lamb and kefta versions I had were juicy, well-cooked and presented alongside bright tabouli and creamy hummus — but both were woefully underseasoned, lacking the depth I can easily find at other local kebab houses. Even the shawarma pita wrap — roasted chicken with veggies and gyro sauce — was dry and bland.

I'd also wish for more even service. Despite ordering shareable apps — nicely textured falafel, and the rich "Aladeen’s Hommus," jazzed up with ground beef, pine nuts and mint — my table wasn't offered any sharing plates on either of my two visits. A Moroccan chicken entrée had a respectable kick thanks to a light harissa cumin sauce, but the kitchen sent out a plate of accompanying veggies while we were still on our starters, rendering the side cold by the time the bird arrived no less than 15 minutes later.

Lastly — after noticing the characters decorating Aladeen's window and menu, the lawyer side of me would wish that the place doesn’t get sued for copyright infringement.

Alas, there are no vaporous spirits around to grant my wishes. And, normally, Aladeen's issues would be enough to prevent me from flying on this carpet again. Despite these shortcomings, however, there are several dishes here worth the ride.

The first is a traditional Moroccan bastilla. If a breakfast burrito had sex with a coffee cake, this would be their offspring. A mammoth pastry crust stuffed with eggs, chicken, crushed almonds and spices is baked, and then topped with mounds of powdered sugar and latticed with ground cinnamon. Though Aladeen lists it as an app, the pie's sweet and savory interplay satisfies my lifelong quest for a compelling meat-based dessert.

The other draw is Aladeen's Lebanese "bitzza." The kitchen uses a classic premade pizza crust instead of the pita the menu lists, but you’ll forgive the low-end sub-out once you taste what results from combining tart and citrus-y sumac with a simple blend of chopped tomato, onion and crumbled feta. The best part: It's ridiculously inexpensive at $5.

With no djinns on the premises, Aladeen has no choice but to focus on polishing up its act. In the meantime, the bright points of the menu will have you happily rubbing your belly in lieu of a lamp.

(david.snyder@citypaper.net)

Aladeen Middle Eastern Restaurant | 619 South St., 215-922-0233. Mon.-Thu., 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 11 a.m.-mid; Sun., noon-9 p.m. Appetizers, $4-$7; soups, sandwiches, salads, pizza, $3-$6; entrées, $7-$16.