Letau Designs' Drawstring Scarf

by Felicia D'Ambrosio

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The ruffle made its world première in 1558, when it was worn to impressive effect by Queen Elizabeth I of England. Woven of fine linen and adorned with lace, the accessory made a clear statement about the wearer's discretionary income; sex appeal was stirred in later, when women's ruffs split down the front to better display some serious décolletage.

Whether wrapped all the way around the neck or split, ruffles frame the face and add dramatic volume that makes the waist appear smaller. Maren Reese, 29, marries these classic principles with modern technique in her company Letau Designs' drawstring scarf, available in more than 125 fabrics, including silk and cashmere. Reese conceived the piece in 2005 with her late partner, Robert Matunda, and 2 yards of fabric. "People find my scarf a timeless piece," she says. "It's a staple for a woman's closet." Reese, who is also a stylist, designer and costumer for TV and film, selects and cuts all of the materials, and then contracts Port Richmond-based firm T&T Sewing to construct the products.

"The scarves are all made the same way, with the same hardware, but some fabrics are more malleable and some are stiffer, which creates different looks," says Reese. "A scarf is typically a flat piece of fabric, but when you have the ability to rouge it ... you can move it around and make it as dramatic or undramatic as you want." Thick woolen versions ($60-$120) can be worn over basic silhouettes to add dimension as well as practical warmth, while silk brocade scarves ($75-$120) may be tied behind the back, calling attention to the face and eyes — and creating a profile strikingly similar to the Elizabethan woman's.

Available by appointment at 2120 E. Westmoreland St., 267-241-5815, letaudesigns.com; Topstitch, 54 N. Third St., 215-238-8877; and at the Jewelry and Fine Crafts Show, Fri.-Sun., Nov. 6-8, 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Fairmount Park Horticultural Center, North Horticultural Drive and Montgomery Avenue, 215-683-0200.

(felicia.dambrosio@citypaper.net)