On a Boat

Michael Schulson focuses on flavor at his stylish 13th Street hang.

by David Snyder

Neal Santos SURF AND TURF 2.0: For Sampan's hiramasa sashimi, paper-thin fish is bolstered by Asian pear kimchee and salty, crispy Nueske bacon.

[ review ]

It took me more than two hours to dig my car out after the first installment of Snowpocalypse 2010. When I was done, my arms hurt. My back hurt. And because I witnessed my older neighbor shovel twice as much snow in half the time, my pride hurt.

Competition for spots in South Philly has always been fierce. But factoring in one of the worst winter storms in history, I was doubtful that the tradition of using a lawn chair to hold a fresh-shoveled space would prevent someone from stealing it. There was absolutely no way in hell I was leaving that parking space. Ever.

Then I read a tweet from chef Michael Schulson, teasing that night's soft-serve flavor at his new restaurant, Sampan. It featured a photo of a box of Kellogg's Frosted Blueberry Pop-Tarts.

Apparently, I'm not the only one who has run over there after seeing such things. "I get that all the time," Schulson laughed during a recent interview. "A lot of people come in just for the ice cream at the bar."

Indeed, the bar at his stylish Midtown Village hang, named after the humble Chinese riverboat, is reason enough to visit. Made from reclaimed wood, the rectangular haunt is the centerpiece of the restaurant. On either side sit two dining rooms accented with color-shifting wall panels with silhouetted trees. In the back, an open kitchen features counter seating for seven.

Given the sleek décor, I thought Pop-Tart-based ice cream might seem out of place. And given Schulson's résumé (Stephen Starr's Pod and Buddakan; his own Izakaya at the Borgata; the TV shows Pantry Raid and Ultimate Cake Off), I didn't expect to hear Rush's "Spirit of Radio" pumping while I waited for a table.

These disarming elements are in place to convey that Sampan doesn't take itself very seriously. But don't be fooled — Schulson's take on shareable Asian plates is no joke.

I didn't want to like Sampan's bahn mi sandwich because it didn't include the gamey pâté that makes the popular Vietnamese "hoagie" what it is. But after one bite, I wasn't sharing. A crunchy roll from Ba Le Bakery came stuffed with Berkshire pork belly marinated in ginger, fish sauce and cilantro. Acidity and heat peeked through in the form of jalapeños, white and red onions and carrots pickled in rice wine vinegar, cinnamon, clove, peppercorn and star anise. Mayo pumped up with Sriracha and roasted garlic provided another savory kick.

Instead of making Asian dishes accessible by dumbing things down, Schulson and executive chef Leo Forneas head in the opposite direction — more flavor. The results are often delicate and beautiful. A saffron/uni aioli added a genteel richness to sweet shrimp sashimi, while pickled papaya and thin-sliced finger chilies lent soft warmth. Smoky suzuki is bathed in ice, soy and yuzu and placed atop bright pomelo with kisses of Chinese mustard and ginger. The kitchen cradles rock shrimp in wonton taco shells along with blood oranges, pickled shallots and creamy avocado.

What I admire most about Schulson's cooking is his effective use of texture to complement flavors. Though it's no longer on the menu, I enjoyed the contrast between the flavors of roasted spiced halibut (topped with turmeric-glazed onions) and the airy crunch of salt-baked tofu croutons. Chewy cubes of taro were a nice counterpoint to amazingly fresh charred octopus sautéed with culantro (cilantro's leafier cousin). I also loved the accents that puffed rice granted to both the truffle-y wild mushroom and goat cheese salad and the sweet, sour and crispy Brussels sprouts.

Schulson's understanding of the interplay between flavor and texture is most prominent in the hiramasa sashimi. Strips of crispy Nueske smoked bacon form a physical bridge between rows of paper-thin yellowtail and Asian pear kimchee, but act as a culinary connector, as well. The salty bite of the bacon is the perfect transition between the fatty fish and the crisp, spicy fruit dice.

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For the "Philly Cheese Steak," the kitchen deep-fries char siu buns and tops them with shredded short rib braised in soy sauce, white miso, scallions, ginger and chicken stock. Folded-in provolone and a crown of crispy picked shallots make for one of the most gloriously addictive bites around. Roasted pork smoked with hickory and cherry turns an already comforting ramen soup into a soulful oasis. Even a simple lamb satay reveals surprising character via homemade yakitori sauce, toasted panko, crystallized ginger and juniper berries.

I loved Schulson's playful version of "Peking" duck. Shredded duck confit is sautéed with hoisin, scallions and cilantro, slid into a Mason jar topped with a duck stock foam and served alongside tamarind crêpes for you to fashion your own tacos.

The downside of having multiple successful plates is that even minor shortcomings stand out. A crispy chili crab noodle dish came across as a muffled mess. I wouldn't have missed the slight fishy taste you often want in frog's legs if they'd boasted the multifaceted flavor profile found elsewhere. I liked the edamame dumplings, a signature dish from Schulson's Pod days. But in contrast to the more mature layerings I found in his more contemporary creations, this truffle-imbued snack came off very one-note.

When I sampled tiny cones of that Blueberry Pop-Tart ice cream, I could see why they were such a draw — the cakey blueberry flavor of the breakfast treat of my youth made me feel like a kid again. That seems to be the vibe Schulson wants to capture. "The best compliment someone could give me is that it was a lot of fun," Schulson said. His restaurant is that and more. I'll stake my parking space on it.

(david.snyder@citypaper.net)

Sampan | 124 S. 13th St., 215-732-3501, sampanphilly.com. Mon.-Thu., 5-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5 p.m.-midnight; Sun., 5-10 p.m. Hot and cold plates, $7-$14; salads, $8-$12; fish, $11-$15; satays and meat dishes, $5-$18; sides $6-$7. Wheelchair accessible.