That New-Decade Look

With the aughts in the rearview mirror, what fashion statements will emerge in the 2010s?

by Josh Middleton and Julia West

Transformer: Items like this Complex Geometries dress, which can be worn a variety of ways, add depth to a wardrobe.

With the dawn of a fresh decade upon us, we are provided an opportunity to reinvent ourselves. How will we define the 2010s through fashion and vice versa? Will we finally take a cue from The Jetsons or continue to recycle trends from the past? While out on the streets for our weekly street fashion column for City Paper's Critical Mass blog, Neighborhood Watch, we see firsthand where fashion is today. In order to get a better read on what elements will influence the look of tomorrow, we assembled an elite task force of Philadelphia's fashion forecasters. They helped us generate a list of factors they believe will carry fashion into the coming years.

The '90s

Peering into our crystal ball, we see a blast of elements from the roaring '90s shaping the way people suit up in the '10s. Fashion is frequently dictated by what was en vogue two decades before. Perhaps this is because 20- and 30-somethings are the ones determining what's in and what's out, and they look back on their childhood for inspiration.

We've already seen this happening on the streets with floral prints, baby-doll dresses and Doc Martens. First-season Project Runway winner, renowned fashion designer and Philly resident Jay McCarroll echoes this prediction. "People can't come up with new ideas so they always have to go backward," he says. But should we really start looking to Zack Morris and Kelly Kapowski for our fashion needs?

Probably not. Maggie Ricco, who since 2006 has authored local fashion blog Broad & Market (cyborgmemoirs.com/street), agrees with McCarroll — to a point. "I don't see people channeling the '90s directly, but elements may reappear to fit the trend." Which is to say that the soft plaid flannel we loved so much is back — but this time, rather than being plucked from bargain bins to hang curtain-like from frameless bodies, it'll be made to fit.

Current fashion isn't all about grunge and Saved By the Bell: Matthew Izzo of his eponymous Old City boutique reminds us that the preppy Ralph Lauren look that's filtering back onto the racks recalls a certain '90s obsession. So if smooth is your game, stay ahead of the curve by stocking your closet with polos, collegiate sweaters and khaki pants before everyone else starts snatching them from under your turned-up nose.

Grunge 2.0: Trendspotters predict fitted pieces that recall '90s alt rock, like this look from Farah Vintage.

The Recession

Izzo suggests another factor that proves we may be leeching off the '90s: Both decades began under the sinister cloud of economic turmoil. He predicts the recession will keep shoppers from tapping the piggy bank to purchase frivolous garments. "People don't have a lot of money to spend on trends right now, so most of the design companies have done stuff clean and simple this year," he says.

HALF OFF DEPOT

Why live life at full price?

While Izzo believes people will be clamoring for basics, neighboring boutique owner Shari Roulin of Reward offers a different take. She suggests people are going to be making investments in more costly signature items to liven up their closet. "If I only have this much to buy my spring wardrobe, I don't necessarily want to go out and get white T-shirts," she says. "I want to go out and buy this amazing dress or that killer pair of shoes." To give the impression that you're rocking a fuller wardrobe, Roulin suggests bulking up your closet with convertible, transformable pieces like a dress by Complex Geometries that transforms into a hoodie, a cardigan, a scarf and back again.

Another byproduct of hard times is an interest in homemade clothes. The holy grail of DIY online marketing, etsy.com, reports a 98 percent increase in total sales this February compared to this time last year. Jay McCarroll says he has noticed a recent surge of craftsters constructing their own threads, but he doesn't foresee women hopping onto the sewing bandwagon out of necessity. Whether it's essential or just plain cute, we meet people every week who embrace the handmade movement.

Music & Pop Culture

Music and clothes have always existed symbiotically, as stars of the music industry have often doubled as fashion icons. From Elvis to Michael to Madonna to Gaga, this harmonious marriage is solid as a rock.

Without prompting, each of our panelists mentioned Lady Gaga, all agreeing that what she wears is revolutionary — but far too costume-y for the likes of everyday fashion. We're not seeing hoof shoes galloping down the street or cigarette shades on the horizon, but the freedom with which she flies her freak flag has inspired some in Philadelphia to be more daring with their fashion.

A more plausible pop-star style we've observed of late is the sharp-shouldered power suits and leather bindings worn recently by Gaga's "Telephone" counterpart, Beyoncé. We're betting high that this female empowerment look, which harks back to '80s-era Annie Lennox and Grace Jones, is going to extend into the coming decade on the streets of Philadelphia. "Now you're seeing girls break out and doing things that are super hard-edge, tough-looking and dominant," says Roulin. "It feels very Mad Max."

But 2010s fashion is all about balance: We've noticed locals getting a grip on this industrial look by pairing studded cuffs and denim jackets with femme florals and sweet blush colors. McCarroll tells us the modern woman will want to ditch the total badass rocker chick image for something prettier. "Think about Avril Lavigne [or Pete Wentz]," he says. "Everything [they] do is out. That whole trend is over."

Put on your pants and jacket: Preppy '90s styles, such as this look from Farah Vintage, are finding their way onto the racks, says Matthew Izzo.

Trendier Fellows

A lack of options, coupled with an often-paralyzing fear that tinkering with fashion jeopardizes one's manhood, has left the men's side of the fashion industry looking bleak. Yet all of our forecasters predict the 2010s will be the decade designers start to push bolder men's looks, providing dudes the chance to step up their fashion game. Thanks to mainstream stores like H&M and American Apparel, a broader range of out-of-the-box fashion — such as vibrant pops of color, accessories like scarves and hats and garments that provide a sleeker fit — are now more accessible to the modern man.

Roulin predicts that the resurgence of the rugged outdoorsy look will remain popular over the next few years. This means we should expect to see even more woolly-faced gents on the street, only now they're buttoning into better-fitting flannels. If the Paul Bunyan look isn't your cup of tea, though, Roulin says she has noticed an increase in futuristic, multifunctional duds that will provide the opportunity to layer pieces like cardigans and knits with funky, ethnic prints.

Come summer, Ricco predicts that guys will throw away their cargo pants and pleated khakis for slimmer-fitting slacks and shorts that end above the knee. "I want to see men getting creative and doing what they want with fashion and not being afraid that it's not appealing to the person they're trying to attract." One current trend in men's fashion that everyone agrees is unattractive is the ball-splitting, super-skinny jean. So take a deep breath, let things adjust and throw those suckers to the curb.

(joshua.middleton@citypaper.net, julia.west@citypaper.net)