The menu at Jovan's features so many service disclaimers, it could've been written by a lawyer. "Your patience is appreciated," it cautions. "It's worth the wait." Don't worry: By the end of your meal, you won't want to leave. Much like the hospitality, the food is honest and transparent — generous, rustic plates you'll be reminiscing about long after you've enjoyed them. The chicken noodle soup is so purifying you'll want to fake a cold to score another bowl. House-smoked pork adds layers of flavor to hearty bean soup. The schnitzel — a lean pork cutlet wrapped around imported ham and two heavenly cheeses, including a cow's milk kajmak that co-owner Dobrila Bokun makes herself — is to die for. And even the most gluttonous eater will need help polishing off the peppery beef goulash, which is a steal at $11.95. Open Tue.-Sat, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; closed Sun.-Mon.

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