Once-mavericky chef Jonathan McDonald has slowed his roll for Pub & Kitchen. Three-dollar bar snacks — olives, hard-boiled eggs, pickled white fish roll mops — are simple accompaniments to the well-chosen beer and wine selections. Stellar homemade bacon elevates the Windsor burger into the ranks of Philadelphia's best; creative fish entrées are yanked from the pan at precisely the right moment. A hip makeover of characteristically dark Chaucer's space features outdoor tables and broad windows that swing open in fair weather, welcoming the outdoors inside and enlivening the dining rooms. The second floor, with its hodgepodge of mismatched chairs and awkwardly hung TVs, makes for an endearing contrast to the smart renovation below.
There may be other places that make their own bacon and sear a mean skate wing, but this is probably the only one that will let you opt instead for the unpretentious pleasure of an ale and an egg. Open Mon.-Wed., 4 p.m.-2 a.m.; Thu.-Sat., noon-2 a.m.; Sun., 11 a.m.-2 a.m.

No comments have been posted for this restaurant