Our fair city went awhile without a proper fish house. Enter third-generation restaurant man Sam Mink, who's revived the family business with a smart renovation and a strong kitchen. Only panes of glass separate intent shuckers from dazzled slurpers at a raw bar that docks hundreds of local and luxury flown-in shellfish in ice. Though the lunch fried-clam belly and lobster roll sandwiches stand out, chilled bivalves are the main draw here, accompanied by elegant cocktails and minimal, well-chosen wine and craft beer lists. From the looks of the swell scene that buzzes from the cool marble bar to the exposed beams, the Mink Dynasty has given us our proper fish house back. Mon.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; closed Sun. Open for lunch Mon.-Sat., 11:30 a..m.-2:30 p.m. (midday menu offered 2:30-5 p.m.); open for dinner Mon.-Sat., 5-11 p.m.; closed Sun.

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